Postcard from Jordan

When to go

Sure, it gets a bit toasty — but that might just be your secret travel weapon.

Visiting the Middle East in the low season (think June and July) means fewer crowds, a slower pace, and the rare chance to see icons like Petra without the usual buzz of tourists. With temps hovering in the mid-30s, it’s warm, yes — but manageable with the right mindset (and a good hat!).

While Europeans flock to their own slice of summer, you’ll be soaking up Jordan’s legendary sites in a far more relaxed, peaceful atmosphere. You might even snap that coveted shot of the Treasury at Petra — no crowds, just you and the magic.

What to see in the capital city of Amman

Amman might not charm you at first glance, but don’t write it off just yet.

This bustling capital is a great base to fly in and out of — and it offers a fascinating glimpse into Jordan’s modern-day rhythm, layered over ancient roots. The Amman Citadel, perched on the city’s highest hill, is a must-see. Think of it as a pocket-sized Acropolis, with sweeping views over the city’s whitewashed sprawl.

From there, follow the pedestrian steps downhill to explore the well-preserved Roman amphitheatre, then wander through the colourful chaos of the central souk. It’s a great place to soak up the local vibe, grab a fresh juice or a few souvenirs, and see daily life in motion.

Amman may not be the main event — but as a warm-up act to Petra and beyond, it’s worth a wander.

Getting around

The first thing you’ll notice in Jordan? The traffic. In Amman, it’s bumper to bumper — all day, every day. Picture three lanes of cars trying to fit into a space clearly meant for one. The local driving style leans heavily on “merging” — though in practice, it often results in gridlock, tooting, waving hands and what we can only assume is very expressive Arabic.

But once you’re out of the city, it’s smooth sailing.

The main highway runs north to south, stretching from Amman to the Red Sea resort of Aqaba — and it’s surprisingly efficient. In around three hours, you can be standing at the entrance to Petra, marvelling at ancient tombs carved from rose-coloured cliffs.

Our tip? Let someone else do the driving. Ask us about private transfers or guided tours — it’s a far more relaxing way to soak up the scenery (and skip the stress).

What to do in Petra

Unless you're a real history buff, you might not need a guide at Petra. For JD50 (around NZ$105), you’ll get your entry ticket and a map/info booklet from the gate — more than enough to help you navigate this sprawling, ancient wonder. The site is well signposted too, with info boards along the way that help bring the stone-carved city to life.

If you're arriving in the evening, Petra by Night is a spectacular introduction. Picture this: hundreds of candles lighting your path through the narrow Siq, leading to the famed Treasury, which glows under the soft light of flickering flames. The silence is broken only by the echo of a lone flute — a haunting soundtrack to an unforgettable evening. All this for JD18 (around NZ$38) — and worth every dinar.

No trip to Petra is complete without a venture into Wadi Rum, Jordan’s legendary desert playground. If your budget allows, you can stay overnight at one of the luxe desert camps (and yes, they’re as dreamy as they sound). But even a day trip is pure magic.

I paid around NZ$400 for a private driver, and the experience was phenomenal. We left at 2.30pm and didn’t return for 12 hours — it was that good. The day included the three-hour drive from Petra to Wadi Rum, a desert Ute ride into Mars-like landscapes, and dinner under the stars at one of the region’s ritzy camps. And the best part? The genuine warmth and hospitality of the Jordanians — something you really have to feel for yourself.

Once-in-a lifetime Petra

Sometimes travel gifts you a moment you could never plan — and will never forget.

My visit to Petra just happened to coincide with a rare lunar eclipse. Thanks to a quick-thinking local driver (and a few well-placed phone calls), we found the perfect spot to watch it. Even better? An astronomer from Amman had set up a telescope and was on hand to answer questions as the shadow crept across the moon.

To stand in the middle of the Jordanian desert, under an inky sky, watching a celestial event unfold through a powerful telescope — it was something truly extraordinary. A moment of silence, science and stars. A once-in-a-lifetime memory that no postcard could ever quite capture.

Where to stay in Petra

When it comes to location, you can’t beat the Petra Guest House Hotel. Nestled right at the entrance to the ancient city — and carved into the towering cliffs themselves — it’s the closest hotel to the historic site, meaning you can roll out of bed and be exploring before the crowds arrive.

And then there’s the Cave Bar — yes, it’s exactly what it sounds like. Housed inside a 2,000-year-old Nabataean tomb, it’s now one of Petra’s most iconic watering holes. The vibe is unforgettable, the setting even more so. Whether you’re toasting a day of exploring or soaking in the atmosphere under the stars, it’s the perfect place to end your day in style.

Beyond Petra

For the return journey to Amman, I took the slower, more scenic King’s Highway — a route that winds its way through history, running parallel to the faster Desert Road. It’s a great way to squeeze in a few more sights before heading home.

First stop: Karak Castle — an imposing Crusader fortress with plenty of stories in its stones, though truth be told, the castle itself might not blow your sandals off. But it’s a solid excuse to stretch your legs and snap a few moody photos.

More impressive is the charming market town of Madaba, famous for its intricate Byzantine mosaics — most notably, a remarkable floor map of the Holy Land inside St George’s Church. It’s the oldest surviving cartographic depiction of the region, and well worth a look.

Just nearby sits Mount Nebo, where Moses is said to have glimpsed the Promised Land. On a clear day, you’ll be treated to sweeping views over the Jordan Valley and even the edge of the Dead Sea.

It’s a fitting, thoughtful way to round out a journey through one of the most remarkable corners of the world.

Stargazing

Back in Amman for an evening, I had time to reflect on seeing one of the Wonders of the World at Petra and a very special night under the stars at Wadi Rum.